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If a summary of a country's winemaking history includes the term "pre-Byzantine Era," you know they've been at it for a while. And that's certainly true for the Greeks. They drank wine more often- and had better access to it- than did their ancient counterparts, the Egyptians and Babylonians.
It's safe to say that a modern Greek wine will never be mistaken for a California vino. Where a good New World wine might have bunches of cherries and mushrooms, a good Greek wine has plenty of rubber and minerals. Both style-wise and literally, California and Greek are a world apart.
Today, Greek winemakers still know their business, and the rest of the world is starting to catch on to what's good about Greece. The Greek wine reviewed here were found to be structured, balanced and distinct. Even if you're addicted to those popular fruit-forward New World wines, Greeks are an excellent way to challenge your palate and see what fantastic and diverse styles one of the world's great wine cultures has to offer
(Below is a selection of these wines. A full listing can be found in The Wine Report Magazine) |
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2004 Boutari, Kallisti, Santorini, Greece
Summary: Elegantly brilliant with a crisp golden straw appearance, this wine caught tasters off-guard with a powerful nose “not for the faint of heart,” with “very complex” aromas of candied lemon drops, black licorice, chalky minerals and straw. One panelist even said it reminded her of “diluted ouzo.” The flavors in this medium-bodied beauty were a subtle blend of stone fruit, licorice, vanilla, creamy lemon and apricot. Licorice seemed to be the star attraction on the long, smooth finish.
Food Friendliness: A no-brainer for this one would be grilled fish stuffed with fresh herbs and sprinkled with sea salt and lemon.
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$20 Average Value |
2003 Boutari, Fantaxometocho, Greece
Summary: Exploring this “sunshine yellow” wine, panelists discovered aromas of light tropical fruit, toast, honey and a mild minerality. Subtle but mouthwatering flavors of butterscotch mingled with sweet lemon and tart apples. This medium- bodied quaffer was deemed to have a pleasant and refreshing mouthfeel, and baked bread and sugar cookies put on the finishing touches.
Food Friendliness: Freshly sautéed calamari with garlic and a squeeze of lemon will leave a lasting impression in tandem with this wine.
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$20 Average Value |
2002 Boutari Filiria, Greece
Summary: This inky wine presented aromas of caramel, cedar and pepper, followed by flavors of black fruits, tobacco and pepper. Smooth tannins paired with deep, intense flavors to make this wine intriguing.
Food Friendliness: Pair this one with a porterhouse steak or even a hearty lamb stew.
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$28 Average Value |
2003 Argyros Estate, Greece
Summary: Thought this light golden wine had long legs, its asparagus, violet and tropical fruit aromas didn’t leap out of the glass. Citrus, tropical fruit and green apple flavors were “easily drinkable, but with a good deal of acid” that tickled the backs of tasters’ throats. The mouth-watering silky finish ended on a tart note.
Food Friendliness: Try a grilled fish seasoned with Greek spices.
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$25 Average Value |
2004 Boutari, Domaine Roxane Matsa, Greece
Summary: Alluring in its deep golden-yellow color, the wine released “meadow” aromas of fresh grass and white flowers that were supported by an undercarriage of “chalky mineral.” “Pleasant candied lemon flavors” balanced by bright acidity and a “hint of honey” left panelists intrigued and wanting another sip. “Lingering sweet apricot flavors” persisted on the delicate finish.
Food Friendliness: Chill this one and serve it with sole in a lemon-butter sauce and a side of asparagus.
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$24 Average Value |
2001 Boutari Evinos, Greece
Summary: Tasters saw moderate color extraction with ruby tones. This Greek wine offered aromas of berry fruits and jamminess with slight notes of alcohol. On the palate, flavors of fig, raisin, and walnut exploded and brought forth a lingering finish of fruit and a slight tannic bite.
Food Friendliness: This wine pairs nicely with a range of foods, from pork loin to read meat to pasta.
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$21 Average Value |
2000 Boutari Grand Reserve, Greece
Summary: This wine showed great depth of color and exuded robust aromas of caramel, tobacco, and pepper with hints of black cherry. Flavors of tobacco, earth and ripe black cherries followed the opening act. The wine offered a lingering finish of smooth tannins matched with ripe fruits.
Food Friendliness: This one works well on its own; pretty much any food will make it a bit smoother and will intensify its caramel notes.
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$18 Average Value |
2001 Boutari, Odé, Greece
Summary: This garnet wine smelled of tomato, earth, blackberry and oak. Cherry cola and tobacco flavors “lacked fruit,” although one taster said it “improved with food and time in the glass.” The long finish offered layers of flavor, prompting a scorer to suggest this wine “may be better in two years.”
Food Friendliness: With beef, this wine gained complexity, including intriguing tea spice and berry flavors.
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$26 Average Value |
2004 Boutari, Santorini, Greece
Summary: Panelists saw a pale golden-straw wine that presented aromas of apricot, citrus blossoms, fresh herbs and minerality with a citrus kick. Flavors of bright apricot and peach, lemon and baked pear made this wine a delight to drink. A clean finish of “lingering minerals” brought a “degree of richness” to the balanced finish.
Food Friendliness: Halibut with a tomato relish and grilled asparagus would work great with this wine.
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$15 Average Value |
2004 Domaine Spiropoulos, Moschofilero, Greece
Summary: Panelists inhaled “very pleasant and relatively strong” aromas of apricot, citrus and vanilla from this peach-colored wine. It tasted of unripe peach, chive and citrus. Light-bodied with a “few tannins that give it some pucker,” the finish was “relatively complex” and lingered on sugared citrus and sour stone fruit.
Food Friendliness: This versatile wine holds up well to food. Try a chicken salad with feat and kalamata olives.
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$10 Above Average Value |
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